At 640 metres, Cómpeta watches over the muscat slopes that made the Axarquía’s reputation. The white village, set against the Sierras de Tejeda natural park, looks out to the sea in the distance and still lives to the rhythm of the harvest and the wine festival.
Steep lanes lead to the Plaza de la Almijara and the church of the Assumption, then to the family bodegas where moscatel is still tasted in people’s homes. All around, the paseras — straw racks where the grapes dry — shape the landscape. On 15 August, the Noche del Vino pours the first harvest on the square.
Cómpeta is also the starting point for the region’s great hikes: La Maroma, the province’s highest peak, is climbed from the neighbouring hamlets. Nerja and its beaches are thirty minutes down the road.